El Castillo

El Castillo is the most photographed image on the site, perhaps even in all of Mexico. It is impressive to be sure and holds an amazing story. The original ruin on this site was built by the Maya when they first occupied this site. When the Toltec invaded, they built their own pyramid over top of the original, which survives intact within it. The original Mayan ruin boasts a red jaguar throne with inlaid spots and eyes of jade. Until two years ago, it was open to the public, reached by a passage dug upward inside the newer pyramid. Because of damage being done by the visitors and the effects of the high humidity created by all the people, this passage was closed to the public in 2007. It was a true loss to the visitors, although probably necessary to protect the structure.

The newer structure is actually a Maya calendar. El Castillo has nine levels, each divided in two by a staircase. This creates eighteen separate terraces, relating to the eighteen 20 day months of the Mayan year. The four stairways have 91 steps each. Adding the top platform gives us the 365 days of the year. Each facade of the pyramid has 52 flat panels, the number of years in the Mayan “Calendar Round”.

As an additional attraction, during the spring and autumn equinoxes, light and shadow forms a series of triangles mimicing the creep of a serpent as it ascends the pyramid on March 20-21 and descends on September 21-22. The site is so packed with tourists at these times it is almost impossible to see anything.

Chichen Itza

Chichen Itza, the most famous and best restored Maya site on the Yucatan, was probably built in the early Eighth Century AD. Sometime in the Ninth Century it was abandoned for some unknown reason and then resettled in the late Tenth Century.  Shortly after this it was attacked by the Toltecs who were migrating from Tula, North of Mexico City. The two cultures fused and survived as evidenced by the proliferation of both architectural styles in later buildings. The city thrived until the 14th Century when it was finally abandoned, again for an unknown reason.

El Castillo

Plumed Serpent guarding the steps of El Castillo

The first OXXO Store (Like a 7/11)

Grupo de las Mil Columns (Group of 1000 Columns)

Cenote Sagrado (Sacred Well)

Cancun To Chichen Itza

We left Claude and Danielle, our newest friends from Quebec, this morning and headed towards Merida, planing a two night stop at the Chichen Itza Ruins along the way.

We hadn’t gotten ten KM before I noticed two (not one but two) motorcycle Trafico cops make a u-turn and start following me. I was doing nothing wrong! I was well under the speed limit and was in the far right lane of a highway being used by many other dual tired trucks. We had our seat belts and headlights on. We were doing nothing wrong.

Sure enough, one of the cops passed me, beeped his horn and pointed to the shoulder. I stopped and he said something in Spanish. I thought I heard the word “permit” but Norma thought he was talking about brake lights. I told him we did not speak Spanish and he said “uno momento” and went to talk to his buddy, a very young, handsome guy who then came to the window. Norma asked if he spoke English and he smiled and said “a little”. All this time the other guy was walking around the car and dolly. The young guy asked for our documents and Norma gave him out Passports. He studied them and asked for my Drivers Licence, which he insisted I take out of my wallet.

His buddy came back from his inspection and said something in Spanish at which time the young guy said “OK”. I said, “we can go?” and he said “yes”. That was it. No explanation and no Mordida. We were on our way.

Not long after that we really got the “bite” when we went through the first of two toll booths. She nailed us for almost $600 Pesos ($58 CAN)! We pulled into the little Pueblo of Piste, near the Chichen Itza ruins and passed a little handicraft stand. I noticed a really nice tablecloth so we stopped. The guy was quoting US dollars so I stopped him right away and told him Pesos. He said $25 USA and then started converting it at the current rate of 13.5 Pesos to the US Dollar. I said $250 Pesos and he shrugged and said “OK”. We then found a blanket for $150 Pesos and a hammoca chair for $300 Pesos. These were all converted from USA Dollars at ten to one so we were discounting everything 35% so it was a good deal. I then noticed he was carving masks in his sleeping quarters behind his stand. I asked him how much the small ones were and was told $50 Pesos. This is $5 CAN for a hand carved and painted mask! I bought one and we went away happy and I am sure we helped made his day as well.

We are now safe and sound parked in the back of the Stardust Hotel and RV Park, a forties or fifties roadside motel about a mile from the Chichen Itza ruins. We are paying $200 Pesos per night for full hook-ups in a grass field. I found the StarChoice signal and we then watched as a busload of 30 German tourists pulled in in a very unique bus that has sleeping quarters. Well, maybe better described as single or double sleeping drawers. It is called Rotel Tours out of Germany. The bus parked, tables were quickly set up, beer appeared, a kitchen was slid out from an outside compartment and the driver (also a Chef) started chopping onions and peppers for a beef stew. It was amazing to watch. By 7:00 they all headed to the ruins for the nightly Laser light show and the park is again ours to share with a couple of dogs and a very shy cat. The excitement is over and life is again tranquil in the Puebla of Piste, Yucatan! We shall explore the ruins tomorrow.

One of the "single" suites (sent by one of the tour members. Thanks)

Blatant Plug!

My son, Brooks, is the owner and operator of Fencetera Fencing, a fencing and deck business in Victoria, BC. He just finished doing his website and I thought I would share it with you. He puts out a very good quality product so if you live on Vancouver Island or one of the Gulf Islands and need a fence or deck, don't hesitate to call him for an estimate. You will like Brooks. He is a lot nicer than me...

Great Fish Tacos!

Today we tried out Cancun's Los de Pescado, a great Fish Taco place recommended by fellow Blogger, RiverGirl. They were everything she said and more. We ordered two each at $18 Pesos and got four on each of our plates! I had a beer, Norma had a bottled water and the total bill was only $105 Pesos or about $10 Canadian for all we could eat. Thanks RiverGirl!

Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres, or “Isla” is an island off Cancun that is a favourite day trip. We caught the walk on ferry from near the RV Park and took a trip there today. It is really a great place that we will definitely visit again, maybe staying a couple of nights in a hotel. The island is a laid back version of Cancun, more in keeping with what I envision a Caribbean Island to be. Prices are much more reasonable than on the mainland and life moves much slower.

We walked the North Beach and were continuing along the boardwalk when we ran into our Quebecois neighbours from the RV park who we joined for a two for one “Happy Hour” at a nice little restaurant near the ferry. It was one of those great days that we will remember.

Breakfast spot. Life could be worse!

Isla Mujeres Lighthouse

North Beach

East Coast – no swimming! 200KM to Cuba.

Happy Hour

Nice hat, eh?

Calling In Sick

I have been slack on posting for a couple of days. First I got a "queasy stomach" that kept me close to home for a couple of days and as soon as I started getting over it, Norma came down with the same thing. That put me into a relapse. It is not all that bad but our excursions away from the park lately have been for groceries (soup) only. Tonight we may put on a brave face and try to hit a popular Fish Taco place recommended by Cancun Blogger RiverGirl.

We have put off our trip to the Isla Mujeres for a day or two and have extended our stay at the RV Park. Stay with me, I will be posting more as I start feeling better.

El Meco Ruins

Right next door to our Mecoloco RV Park are the El Meco Ruins, built between the 14th and 16th Centuries AD. Although one of the smaller Mayan ruins in Mexico they are unique because as they have not been on display very long, are in better natural shape. Until recently they were one of the few that allowed you to actually climb the main ruin. Now they are like most of the rest, no climbing allowed. I appreciate the reasons for this precaution but I also miss the opportunity to get as close to these ancients as possible.

Pyramids For My Father

My parents never traveled too far afield. When I was very young my dad built a camper for his pickup and we spent a lot of time exploring the Northwest USA but they usually stayed pretty close to home. Dad was a frustrated world traveler. He bought and studied dozens of books about different parts of the world and was as much of an armchair expert on those areas as he could be in the pre-Internet days.

My dad worked as a Union Carpenter until he was over 65 and then started a small neighborhood cabinet making business in his garage which kept him busy off and on for a couple more years. All this time he was waiting for the opportunity to travel. He always wanted to see the wonderful pyramids of Mexico but never went, always waiting for the "perfect" time.

As my mother aged, she developed an inner ear / balance problem and it became obvious that she was not going to be climbing any pyramids (even if she wanted to). My dad countered with refusing to travel anywhere until mom "got well" and could climb pyramids. They died without ever realizing his dream. They were not rich but neither were they poor. They left their three kids (who did not need or want) the money they should have spent on themselves.

So now I am in Mexico climbing dad's pyramids for him. I should have kept a few of his ashes to put on top of one. He would have enjoyed the view.

Cancun

We took a drive around the Hotel Zone of Cancun today. Wow! It is a good thing we have a motorhome because I don’t thing there are too many hotels there I could afford for any length of time.

We stopped at the beach and watched the water for a while. We will be returning for a swim very soon. The water is beautiful! We stopped for lunch of fish tacos – 12 pieces of fish! I couldn’t eat it all. This may or may not have been the place where the Tom Cruise movie “Cocktail” was filmed. It was a great day and we got back to the RV park in time for Happy Hour with our French Canadian neighbours.

We have a lot more exploring to do and we are planning a trip over to Isla Mujeres for a night or two in a hotel. It should be fun!